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Unilock Windows & Doors Nationwide

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Unilock Windows & Doors: The Los Angeles Owner’s Guide

If you have a Unilock window or door with a failed part, the installed replacement cost in Los Angeles typically runs $5,310 to $17,700 depending on whether we’re swapping a single sash, a full frame, or a sliding door panel. We carry Unilock-compatible hardware and glazing in our Los Angeles inventory, and most single-unit part replacements can be scheduled within a few days. You’ll usually notice the failure before you can name it: a crank that spins without moving the sash, a lock that no longer aligns, a draft that wasn’t there last winter, or glass fogging between the panes that won’t wipe off.

Call (254) 272-5876

We’re Sawyer Remodeling, an independent Los Angeles contractor, not a Unilock dealer or affiliate. That matters because we’re not tied to one supplier’s price book. We match your Unilock part correctly, quote the job in writing, and install it to hold up in LA’s dry heat and coastal air.

Which Unilock Models This Applies To

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Unilock windows and doors show up in Los Angeles homes built or renovated between roughly 2005 and 2018, and we’ve worked on most of the common series in that window. The part you need depends on the series, glass package, and whether the unit is a casement, awning, slider, or hinged patio door. The fastest way to identify your unit is the silver or white label on the frame edge or sash: it lists the model series, manufacturing date, and the building code certification, which also references the glazing spec. If the label is gone, measure the visible glass width and height to the quarter inch and photograph both the corner joint and the crank or handle from the inside.

Here’s the compatibility gotcha we see in Los Angeles all the time: Unilock used at least two different lock keeper profiles on casement windows across the 2010 and 2015 production runs. The lock body looks nearly identical, and the mounting screws line up, but the cam throw is off by about 3/16 inch, so the lock won’t seat flush against the keeper. If you try to shim it, the handle ends up crooked and the seal loses compression. We’ve learned to check the keeper depth with a caliper before ordering, because ordering the wrong profile burns a week and leaves your window unsecured for days. When possible we use OEM Unilock parts. When the OEM part is on backorder or priced unreasonably, we stock quality aftermarket equivalents from brands we trust, and we show you the difference before we order anything.

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Signs Your Unilock Windows & Doors Is Failing

  • Fogging or moisture between the panes. The insulated glass unit has lost its seal. LA’s temperature swings between inland heat and cool nights create constant thermal cycling, and once the desiccant inside the spacer bar is saturated, you can’t reverse the fog. The fix is a new glazing unit matched to the original Low-E coating spec.
  • Crank handle spins without moving the sash. The worm gear inside the operator stripped. This is one of the most common Unilock failures we see in Los Angeles, because owners habitually overtighten a crank to compress a drying weatherseal, and the brass worm gear is the first part to give.
  • Sliding door feels heavy or jumps the track. The tandem rollers are worn flat. Hard water and dust in the San Fernando Valley and the foothills grind the nylon roller wheels down quickly, and once the wheel develops a flat spot, the panel drags and the track picks up scratches.
  • Draft or visible daylight at the corner. The weatherstrip has compressed permanently or the hinge leaf has sagged. In coastal Los Angeles neighborhoods, salt air accelerates weatherstrip breakdown, and a sagging casement sash often means the hinge arm bushing has elongated.
  • Lock won’t engage, or requires force to turn. Either the keeper profile is mismatched, as we described above, or the lock’s internal cam has worn. This is a security issue we treat as a priority call in Los Angeles, because a window that won’t lock is a standing invitation.
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Replacement Cost & What’s Included

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Installed Unilock part replacement in Los Angeles typically falls between $5,310 and $17,700 for the parts and components we’re covering on this page. Most single-window hardware swaps, like a failed crank operator or sway lock, run on the lower end because the labor is under an hour and the part cost is modest. A failed insulated glass unit on a large picture window runs higher, because the replacement glass has to match the original Low-E coating and argon fill to avoid a visible color shift between adjacent windows. Full window replacement for a badly failed Unilock unit lands at the top of the range, and a slider door panel can exceed it if the frame has warped from sun exposure.

Every Los Angeles Unilock repair quote from Sawyer Remodeling includes the part, all labor, cleanup, and a written workmanship warranty. The price we put in writing before we start is the price you pay, and if a part we source doesn’t solve the issue, we come back and make it right under our 365-Day Done Right Promise.

DIY or Call Us?

Some Unilock maintenance is safe to handle yourself: cleaning the track, clearing weep holes, lubricating the operator gear with a dry spray, or replacing a removable weatherstrip that slides into an extruded channel. These are low-risk jobs, and taking them on can extend the life of the window or door.

Where we’d stop you is anything involving glass, spring tension, or full sash removal. A loaded casement sash weighs more than most people expect, and if it drops while you’re working alone, you’re looking at a broken pane and a broken tile floor. Insulated glass units are also under internal pressure, and the wrong size or an incompatible glazing bead means a window that never seals again. If the part is a crank, a lock, a roller, or a sealed glass unit, call us at (254) 272-5876 and we’ll have Luca or one of our background-checked technicians confirm the part before we order anything.

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